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Frankfurt may not be the first city that comes to mind when planning a trip to Germany. But for travelers who want to explore the country’s culture, history, and creativity in a deeper way, it offers something unique. On this trip, I explored Frankfurt, the financial capital of continental Europe, then continued north to the village of Hungen. What I found was a rich mix of architectural detail, wartime memory, regional food, and warm hospitality.
First Impressions: Frankfurt’s International Pulse
I flew into Frankfurt International Airport and immediately felt the global energy of the city. While Berlin and Munich often get more attention, Frankfurt stands on its own. With a population of over 760,000, it is home to world-class museums, art galleries, and the largest English-speaking theater in Germany. It is also one of the most culturally diverse cities in the country.
I arrived in Hessen with a question in mind. How does Germany continue moving forward while holding space for its difficult history? Frankfurt gave me more than one answer.
Walking Through the Old Town
Like many visitors, I started in Römer, the heart of Frankfurt’s old town. My guide, David Jones, is a retired banker from England who has lived in Frankfurt for over 40 years. He showed me around on foot, and I quickly saw why he never needed a car. Frankfurt’s public transportation system makes it easy to get anywhere in the city.
As we walked, we passed what looked like a small metal plaque embedded in the sidewalk. It was a “stumbling stone,” a brass square that marks the last known address of someone who was taken during the Holocaust. Each one is engraved with the person’s name and fate.
These quiet memorials are easy to miss but impossible to forget. They are part of a national effort to make sure this history is never erased.
Rebuilding History: The Old New Town
During World War II, much of Frankfurt’s old town was destroyed by bombing. Starting in the 1980s, the city began restoring key buildings to their original design. One of the most detailed reconstructions is the House of the Golden Scales. Originally built in 1619 by a Dutch spice trader, it was destroyed in 1944 and rebuilt in 2018.
From the rooftop, I could see the Frankfurt Cathedral rising over the town. This Gothic church witnessed the coronation of ten emperors between the 16th and 18th centuries. It survived the war mostly intact and now serves as a visual anchor for the surrounding half-timbered buildings and cobblestone streets.
Frankfurt Christmas Market Traditions
Since I visited in November, I arrived just as the city was setting up for its annual Christmas market in Römerberg Square. Stalls were being built, vendors were unloading handmade goods, and you could feel the excitement in the air. Frankfurt’s market is one of the oldest in Germany, dating back to 1383.
We stopped for lunch at Wagner, one of Frankfurt’s traditional apple wine taverns. Apple wine, or Apfelwein, is a tart local cider served in stoneware pitchers and diamond-patterned glasses. You can drink it pure or mix it with sparkling water. It is more than a drink here. It is a symbol of regional pride, and Frankfurt has more apple wine pubs than anywhere else in Germany.
If you enjoy trying local drinks when you travel, this is something to put high on your list.
Culture and Memory Side by Side
Frankfurt is a city that remembers. In the middle of the square where the market is held, there is a plaque marking the spot where books were burned by Nazi supporters in 1933. The inscription includes a quote from writer Heinrich Heine: “Where books are burned, people aren’t far behind.” It is a heavy moment, standing there among the cheerful market setup, but it captures what makes Germany different. The past is not hidden, and the reminders are intentional.
At the same time, Frankfurt is also a city of progress. It is home to the European Central Bank, the German Stock Exchange, and Messe Frankfurt, one of the world’s largest trade fair centers. The city focuses more on commerce and ideas than on manufacturing. You can feel that future-facing mindset in the skyline, which rises behind the old town in sharp contrast.
From City to Countryside: Arrival in Hungen
After a few days in Frankfurt, I drove about 30 miles north to Hungen, a small shepherd’s town known for its cheese. This was a completely different pace. The town is quiet, and the focus is on tradition, especially when it comes to food.
At Käsescheune Hungen, I met Roland, a master cheesemaker. He showed me the cellars where they age more than 800 cheeses, including some made with elderflower, beer, and even apple wine.
The cheese is aged on wooden shelves, and the process includes bathing them in a salt brine that has been reused and replenished for seven years. That saltwater, he told me, is one of the secret ingredients.
A Window Into Cheesemaking
One thing that stood out to me was the transparency of the operation. You can watch the cheesemaking process through large windows in the restaurant or from the street. There is even a glass floor near the entrance that gives you a view down into the cellar.
The cheeses are made using milk from local dairies, and everything is organic. Even the shelves the cheese rests on play a role in flavor. The wood absorbs moisture from the cheese and later returns it when needed, creating a natural balance.
Ending the Day With Raclette
If you visit on a Thursday, try to stay for Raclette night. This traditional Swiss-inspired dinner involves heating a wheel of cheese and scraping the melted portion directly onto your plate. You can add vegetables, bread, and pickles to create your own mix. It is a cozy and communal experience that is perfect after a day of exploring.
Before leaving, I picked up several cheeses for the road, including one flavored with glühwein spices, which reminded me of the Christmas market in Frankfurt. It was the kind of connection that ties a trip together—the flavor of one region showing up in another.
If You Plan To Visit Frankfurt and Hungen, Germany
When to Go:
Late November to December for Christmas markets
Spring and early fall for milder weather and fewer crowds
What to See in Frankfurt:
- Römerberg Old Town
- Frankfurt Cathedral rooftop view
- House of the Golden Scales
- Städel Museum and Schirn Kunsthalle
- Book burning memorial plaque
- Euro sculpture and financial district
- Wagner apple wine tavern
- Frankfurt Christmas Market (mid-November to late December)
What to See in Hungen:
- Käsescheune Hungen cheese shop and cellar
- Raclette night on Thursdays
- Glass viewing floor and street-side cheesemaking window
- Local dairy shops and countryside walks
- Nearby Hessian Shepherd Festival (held every 2 years)
Don’t Miss:
- A glass of apple wine in a traditional tavern
- Glühwein at the Christmas market
- Apple wine–infused cheese from Hungen
- Watching the cheesemaker bathe wheels by hand
- A warm raclette dinner served tableside
Final Thoughts
This journey gave me a better understanding of Germany’s complexity. In Frankfurt and Hungen, I found places that honor memory, invest in tradition, and welcome visitors with curiosity and care. From walking the rebuilt streets of the old town to tasting cheese aged with patience and intention, this trip was filled with moments that made me slow down and pay attention.
If you are planning a trip to Germany and want something that goes beyond the typical tourist stops, I recommend this route. Frankfurt offers the mix of history and innovation, while Hungen brings you face-to-face with local life and craftsmanship. Together, they offer something more complete.
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